Unlike the trail systems in Minnesota, hiking in Tuscany brings plenty of surprises. Often the trails run through or along properties. It is difficult not to feel intrusive at times. Sometimes, the past appears out of nowhere in the form of an abandoned house, church, or even a graveyard.
On the day of my forty-second birthday, my partner Tommaso and I set out from Via Della Villa near Santa Brigida determined to hike through the forest to Pontessieve and then catch a train to Florence. We discovered a trail connecting the tiny village of Fornello to a remote “island” of countryside. February is the beginning of good weather here; some days are warm and sunny. Despite a sharp breeze, the morning was brilliant, and the sky was clear. I was somewhat concerned that we hadn’t planned our lunch properly, however, Tommaso was unconcerned. Since it was only going to be a three or four-hour walk, we probably wouldn’t starve.
Behind Fornello, there is a trail that leads uphill. At the summit is a park called Giardino degli Orbs. I mention this because we have hiked here often, and I was slightly disappointed not to be going on this trail. Hidden within the pines are the remains of a church nearly worn away over time. Further along the path are views galore, castles, and abandoned houses. Little did I know, there were wonders to behold on the new trail.
After passing through sleepy Fornello, we started uphill on the hiking trail. Thankfully, it was a gradual elevation gain, and we kept a steady pace for the first half of the hike. The silvery leaves on the olive trees gleamed in the morning light. A landscape unfolded that was so varied and textured we couldn’t help but stop and look around every bend in the trail. After the lake (lakes are rare delights in this country) a hamlet unfolded with beautiful houses and gardens in pristine condition. We greeted a signora who was pruning her vining roses in the sunlight. She informed us that February was the ideal month for this task. I thought of the roses in Minnesota, resting beneath the snow.
Once we passed the perfect houses, we found ourselves on Via di Montefiesole, the only through road in the area. As we came around another corner, the first attraction of the journey came into view. A windmill appeared, a real one with wooden frames for sails. It was as if we had stepped into another time. As we neared the windmill (I was already looking for any possible entrances), Tommaso called my attention to the bar across the road. Not just any bar, but a bar with sandwiches that was open on a Sunday morning.
Situated in a typical roadside villa, Bottega del Mulino functions as a rest stop for hikers and mountain bikers. This place offers incredible views and locally sourced menu items. A section of the bottega is a retail space, filled with delicious goodies from pasta to truffle spread. The proprietors are also the keepers of the windmill. While we waited for the sciachiatta flat bread to finish baking, we took a quick tour of the windmill. As we ascended the winding staircase to get a look at the wooden mechanics of the old mill, I was reminded of the fact that in Italy, and with Tommaso in particular, we were always climbing something. Towers, hills, and now a windmill. Although the official Pontessieve website calls it a “Leonardo Davinci Machine”, the mill was built in the early nineteenth century and was restored in 2000 by German, Dutch, and Italian engineers. It is a worthwhile stop just to see the beautifully crafted mechanical parts.
After inhaling our stuffed sciacchiatta, drinking a glass of sparkling wine, and nibbling on some fresh pecorino cheese, we resumed our trek. Full from our gluttonous brunch, we were unwise in our assumption that there would be no more elevation gains in the trail. Since we were technically above Pontessieve, we thought it was logical to finish the trip by going downhill. All we could do was laugh as we started up a steep hillside that led to more forest, taking us away from the distraction of the panoramic views.
I had seen on Google Maps that the Castello di Montefiesole was in the vicinity of the trail. Since I was expecting an actual castle, I completely forgot to look for it as we walked. Later after looking again at the map, I realized that we had indeed walked past it. I assume that it simply isn’t visible from the trail. Photos from Google Maps show that it is a ruin, not really the castle we had in mind. Instead, we happened upon an abandoned cemetery containing the former residents of Montefiesole. Crumbling walls and a broken wrought iron gate surround the hand full of tombstones. Overgrown with tall grasses, no one has been here recently. At least not relatives of those laid to rest. The most recent death date we found was 1977. I read their names: Raffaella, Gino, Rosa. I bade farewell to the folks interred in this peaceful forest and we continued along the rocky trail.
Perhaps a few hundred meters ahead we came across the Parrochia San Lorenzo a Montefiesole. Regretfully we didn’t enter, as we were distracted by the view of the valley below. Another beautiful Roman-style church, hidden away in yet another cute hamlet. This time the trail really was ascending, and our spirits were lifted. We were nearing Pontessieve at last. There was brief talk of finding a pastry at the bakery by the station. After viewing the schedule, we decided to get on the next train to Florence. I always feel a tinge of sadness after leaving the forest and returning to reality. It was a magical three hours well spent.